Southern Tet tradition
After more than 300 years of land reclamation, the Southern people have created a Tet style with its own unique mark, both preserving traditional identity and harmonizing with the characteristics of the new land. Tet is not only an occasion for family reunion, but also the crystallization of culture, beliefs and the simple, liberal lifestyle of the people of the South in general, and Long An province in particular.
When the cold north winds signal the arrival of spring, every household is busy with the custom of picking apricot leaves.
Southern people believe that the brilliant yellow apricot blossoms in the first days of the new year will bring luck and fortune. Therefore, more than two weeks before Tet, families meticulously pick each leaf, so that the apricot blossoms will bloom at their most brilliant on New Year's Eve and the morning of the first day of Tet.
Farmers in Tan Tay apricot growing village begin picking apricot leaves (Photo taken on the 15th day of the 12th lunar month)
In Long An, many families have at least one apricot tree in front of their house, and there are also localities that develop the apricot growing profession. In particular, the apricot growing profession in Tan Tay commune, Thanh Hoa district was formed in 2004 when Mr. Tran Van Thong brought apricot varieties from Ben Tre to plant in Hamlet 4. Thanks to increasingly high economic efficiency, by 2020, the apricot growing profession in Tan Tay commune was recognized by the Provincial People's Committee.
With many years of experience in growing apricot, Ms. Nguyen Thi Ngoc Nu (Hamlet 4, Tan Tay Commune) shared: “Picking leaves is simple, but to make the flowers bloom in time for Tet requires experience. The picker must observe the weather and the size of the flower buds to calculate the right time. After picking the leaves, the tree needs to be meticulously cared for, adjusted the amount of water each day to ensure that by December 29-30, the flowers will bloom brilliantly”.
Picking apricot leaves is not just a job, but also a cultural beauty, a thread connecting people with nature. Apricot growers must have experience, accurately predict the weather and the growth of the tree to ensure the flowers bloom at the most sacred moment.
Southern people consider the Kitchen Gods worship ceremony on December 23 as an important ritual to open the Tet season. In addition to the carp that sends the Kitchen Gods to heaven, the offering tray also includes three dishes including chicken eggs, pork and shrimp - symbolizing the harmony of Heaven - Earth - Humanity.
In particular, a bowl of sweet rice balls is also indispensable, symbolizing the wish for good things and smoothness in the new year.
Ms. Sen's family gathers around a pot of banh tet (Photo: Chi Tam)
The ancestral altar on Tet is neatly decorated with a tray of five fruits typical of the South: custard apple, fig, coconut, papaya, mango - expressing the wish "Pray for enough prosperity".
Southern Tet cannot lack traditional dishes with profound meanings, in which banh tet is a symbol of abundance and warmth. With a layer of banana leaves on the outside, sticky rice inside and green bean or fatty meat filling, banh tet is not only a familiar dish but also a cultural feature that connects families every time Tet comes.
Ms. Nguyen Thi Sen (Can Giuoc town, Can Giuoc district) shared: “My family has maintained the tradition of wrapping banh tet for a long time. Since I was a child, my memory has always been filled with the image of the whole family gathering together to wrap banh tet. Every year, on the 29th day of the Lunar New Year (full year) or the 28th day of the Lunar New Year (short year), my family wraps about 30 banh tet loaves to give to relatives and neighbors. We wrap many different types of fillings such as mung bean, banana, sweet bean to suit each person's preferences”.
What is even more special is that Ms. Sen's family has three generations living under one roof. Therefore, each occasion of wrapping banh tet is not only a preparation for Tet but also a precious time for everyone to gather and share stories of the past year.
“The moment when the whole family sits together around the pot of banh tet, chatting animatedly is truly joyful and meaningful. Those are moments of family bonding that I always cherish” - Ms. Sen added.
Braised pork with duck eggs is an indispensable dish of Tet
In addition to banh tet, the Tet meal also includes braised pork with duck eggs with the meaning of wishing for a fulfilling life. Or the bitter melon hat stuffed with meat is popular with people because it contains a positive message that all difficulties and hardships will pass, giving way to good things in the new year.
Trinh Hoai Duc in the book Gia Dinh Thanh Thong Chi said: On the first day of the New Year, in front of the main door, every house erects a bamboo tree, on which is tied a bamboo basket, in the basket containing betel, areca, lime, and hanging gold and silver paper next to the basket, called erecting the neu pole. The reason for this is unknown. On the 7th day of Tet, it is taken down, called lowering the neu pole. During the Tet days, all debts are not collected until the flagpole is lowered.
On Tet, regardless of rich or poor, aldults or children, everyone is full and happy, the poor in the countryside also have enough ceremonies. From the day of erecting the neu pole, every family has fun and eats without any prohibition, until the day of lowering the pole.
Mr. Ban hangs sweets, candies, etc to decorate the pole
In recent years, the custom of erecting the pole on Tet has gradually faded away. Instead, people often choose to play with flowers and ornamental plants to decorate their houses with the wish for a new year of prosperity, luxuriance, and abundance.
However, in a small corner of Duong Xuan Hoi commune, Chau Thanh district, Long An province, during the days before Tet, Mr. Phan Van Ban still preserves the traditional beauty by carefully erecting the neu pole in front of his house.
With his old but still steady hands, Mr. Ban meticulously chooses each bamboo branch, ties each talisman, and hangs each simple but meaningful item. For him, each detail on the pole reminds him of the old Tet seasons, when simplicity and sincerity blend into each traditional custom.
Sharing about this custom, Mr. Ban said: “Every year, on the 23rd of the 12th Lunar month, we see off the Kitchen Gods, on the 25th we visit our grandparents’ graves, and then clean the house to prepare for Tet. On the afternoon of the 30th, we erect a neu pole, worship New Year’s Eve, and welcome our grandparents back to celebrate Tet with their children and grandchildren. Erecting a pole also has a sacred meaning, symbolizing the dispelling of bad things and protecting the peace of the family in the first days of the new year. The pole is a reminder of our roots and gratitude to our ancestors. I hope that the younger generation will understand and appreciate more the good customs that our ancestors have preserved for generations.”
Southern Tet is not only a time for reunion but also a blend of tradition and modernity. Although times have changed, good customs are still preserved, creating a unique Tet identity, showing the warmth, sincerity and deep affection of the people of the South in general, and the people of Long An in particular./.
By Khanh Duy - Translated by Q. Thien
Source: https://baolongan.vn/phong-vi-tet-cua-phuong-nam-a189708.html
